Early in the morning we depart from Yerevan and head to Tsaghkunk village in Gegharkunik region.
 
Here, in Tsaghkunk Restaurant & Glkhatun restaurant, world cooking star, Danish chef Mads Refslund, has been "doing magic" for already several days.

I will not tell about his outstanding biography and all those Michelin restaurants he established and worked in – the information is available on the web. Instead, I would like to convey his philosophy and attitude toward the food and what makes me call what he does in the kitchen not culinary but “magic.”

While visiting a farm, Mads and the team he came with, always touch the local soil, the growing plants, to understand the local climate, the degree of humidity. If the chef asks for any food, it should be as close to natural as possible – the berries and fruits with leaves, the plants with roots. They are joking that recently they are even trying not to clean the soil on the roots, maybe, it is also important to see the natural and complete picture of the plant.

While getting familiarized with the Armenian cuisine, he is primarily interested in one question – does an ordinary Armenian family eat this food at home, at the evening dinner?

Mads Refslund came to Armenia with his team to serve several dinners. At this moment, together with chef of Tsaghkunk Restaurant & Glkhatun restaurant Susanna Ghukasyan they are creating new combinations, the process though sometimes is being “interrupted” by visiting journalists.

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Mads Refslund | Image by: Mediamax

This morning he again returns to the restaurant after another “research campaign” nearby. He enters the kitchen, makes breakfast for him, after which we are having a talk.

Have you heard or maybe tasted anything from Armenian cuisine before coming here?

Yes, without really knowing it. I have tasted lavash in many different versions - in US, in Denmark also in Georgia. I was in Georgia 2 years ago. Of course, lavash is better here, when it is coming out from the tonir, from the ground and when it's just fresh made.

I’ve heard You liked the concept of tonir.

Yes, I love it, because it is very grounded, it is very knit with the nature, takes us back to how we cooked many years ago. I like traditions, but I also like to operate them, I like the feeling that we are knit with Mother Earth. I like to cook in the ground, it feels very natural to me. Cook with live fire is one of my visions of cooking and one of the ways I cook.

You have very interesting food philosophy, regarding used ingredients, importance of returning to simplicity and being closer to nature. Most of our vegetables and fruits are organic. Is Armenia interesting in this sense?

It is completely alike with my philosophy, because the more pure and more simple it is, the more I like it. We don’t want pollute the food, we don’t want pollute our mind, because we become what we eat. If we eat things that are not natural we become unnatural, I believe in that. It’s not only the feeling you give to your body but it is also a mindset.

You like meeting with farmers, visiting local markets. Have You been impressed with anything during such visits in Armenia? Have You found anything new?

Yes, many things. Yesterday we went to the cheese farm (Gavar, Mikayelyan’s farm-ed), it was unbelievable, really beautiful experience. This guy was just so passionate about his work. He was sitting, talking with stars, and his eyes were just on fire. We just didn’t talk about anything else but food, we were just sitting and it was a feeling like “wow”.

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Mads Refslund | Image by: Mediamax

So many feelings were involved. It is family project for years. And we met his dad and brother, his wife. It was so beautiful to see and was so different from all of the cheeses I've seen here, because a lot of cheeses here are just fresh cheeses, just made now, almost a week old. And these were aged 4-5 years old and there was a beautiful, beautiful staff.

I really feel he was deeply in love with what he is doing, as same as I do. If you are not in love with what you do...

Why are you doing it?

Exactly, the same with you. You wake up one day and just say, “I don’t want to go interview this stupid chef from Denmark.”

That’s why you should always follow your passion.

Overall, what interesting foods have You found here?

The teas, I think are very interesting. All the herbs you have. I tasted citron, really interesting herb. The mountain salt is also very interesting. The mountain thyme, you use in the tea. The crawfish you have. The dried fruits. You have amazing fruits, they are unbelievable it’s like a candy land for grown-ups, also for kids. Dried apples... whatever you have dried is just so intense of flavor.

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Mads Refslund | Image by: Mediamax

About vegetables, some are out of season now. Mushrooms are coming out in the forest. We are going to the forest to find mushrooms. All the berries are amazing. Black currants remind me of my childhood, but it's little bit different flavor here. All the nuts you have, green walnuts you have. It's just beautiful staff you have.

Will You use these ingredients in upcoming dinners?  

Of course, all the things I've just talked about impressed me. That’s what I will use. There are probably things I haven’t seen yet. I can also see that you are a meat country, you love meat. I am pescetarian (person who does not eat meat but does eat fish-ed), I don’t eat meat but since I’ve come here I tasted it just to learn about it, but I don't need meat in daily meals. So that’s why it will be more vegetarian-driven and also more pescetarian-driven. We will have meat, have some ducks, maybe will do something with pig or lamb, but we will keep more to pescetarian, plant world.

I guess, You have Your rules in the kitchen, will You share with the key ones?

Rules mean that they can be broken sometimes. I’ll try - be concentrated, focus on what you’re doing, always work clean. The kitchen has to be clean always, it is very-very important for me. I get stressed if it’s dirty.

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Mads Refslund | Image by: Mediamax

Be happy, listen to good music. If it is bad feeling in the kitchen, like the chef is mad, yelling a lot, than it’s just a bad vibe. We must have a good vibe in the kitchen.

If You haven’t become a chef, what would You like to do?

Maybe a photographer (smiles and points to our photographer - ed), or a hat-maker. I love hats, I’m wearing hats a lot. I could be a hat-maker. I love the process of making hats. I have a good friend who is doing it, and I’m so fascinated about how he’s creating. It is crafts, you know, it is when you work with your hands.

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Mads Refslund | Image by: Mediamax

Maybe, when I get 60 years old I’ll do it, but right now - no. I love what I do. Maybe I will do hats one day. About photo, it’s just a hobby, I am just taking so many pictures, but I never use anything. I’m very bad at social media.

You prefer being more in the kitchen than in social networks, don’t You?

I’m trying to be everywhere at the same time, it’s just not possible.

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World renowned chef, co-founder and former chef of one of the best restaurants in the world - NOMA (Denmark) - Mads Refslund - will give gastronomic performances in Tsaghkunk Restaurant & Glkhatun restaurant from September 30 to October 3 and October 5 to 10.

The cost for the dinner comprising of 15 dishes is AMD 50 000; selection of wines – AMD 30 000.  For reservations call: +374 41 401 890.

The development of Tsaghkunk community is being implemented by Dar Foundation of Regional Development and Competitiveness within the framework of “Gagarin” project.

Yana Shakhramanyan

Photos: Emin Aristakesyan